The New Paris Experience

Paris has become a city of two halves- those who go with the Tik-Tok crowds and those who choose places that barely exist on Google

Outside Hotel De Ville last week

How many times have you seen something on social media- a plate of pasta, a candlelit corner of a restaurant, a giant croissant, and then travelled halfway across the world to go to that exact same place only to be well, massively underwhelmed? I thought so.

(Did I ever tell you about the time I made my husband drive halfway across France to go to some shop I saw on Instagram, which actually turned out to be someone’s front room selling dinner plates for £300? We don’t talk about that in my household anymore.)

My point is recommendations have changed. Once upon a time it used to be that you reached out to someone you trusted for a great restaurant recommendation or a gold-standard hairdresser. These were people you knew, or at least whose taste you trusted. Nowadays? We take advice off whoever posts the prettiest picture. Don’t get me wrong, social media has been incredible in helping me discover corners of the world I’d ordinarily never have visited. Nigel Slater’s Instagram account for example, is a constant source of inspiration and I have planned entire itineraries based around where he chooses to travel- and have never been underwhelmed. But mostly I’ve been left disappointed by cafes I’ve ventured to based on some influencer who took a pretty picture under one of its parasols.

I mention all this because last week I was in Paris again. 

I love this city and have been travelling here several times a year ever since I lived here back at the turn of the century. And yes, I realise that makes me sound like a relic. Paris is always delightful, but recently I’ve begun to notice something a bit off. Queues. Literally hordes of tourists crammed round the doorways of some of the city’s worst establishments. Take Chez Janou. I have it on good authority by a Parisian friend that’s it somewhat of a joke in Paris. Bad food, terrible service and the most insane booking system know to humankind. (You basically can’t book because no one answers the phone ever.) And yet, it’s currently one of Paris’s most difficult restaurants to get a reservation at. Why? Tik-Tok, where a whole generation of creators have become fixated on Janou’s giant chocolate mousse pot. 

Or take Carrette, a very ordinary cafe that sells extraordinarily bad hot chocolate. Still, there are lines down the street to get a pot of its diabetic-inducing hot chocolate and whipped cream. Why? Tik-Tok again, where gently stirring a pot of Carrette’s cement-like hot chocolate has become as much a totem of Gen Z  as white tennis socks and meme humour.

Or even takes the dozens of exceptionally average bistros across the city who have realised that by simply attaching garlands of pink plastic flowers to their front door, will turn them into a money-pumping Instagram sensation- even if everyone does leave half their dinner after they photographed it.( Thankfully the city council are currently trying to crack down on these aesthetic poxes.)

And so, the intense Tik-Tokification of one of the world’s most beloved cities has left the discerning traveller wondering where’s a sure bet to go for recommendations. And since Paris’s very best places are barely on Google, let alone on Tik Tok, one can be left feeling, well, a bit stumped.

But no more. Because last Wednesday I had the pleasure of attending Substack’s first party in Paris. Imagine a bookstore filled with the city’s sharpest minds and most discerning tastemakers and you get some idea of the crowd who was there.

Some of Paris’s real insiders at Substack’s writer party last week. (Picture by @augustasagnelli)

And because I am always thinking of you, I asked a bunch of them for the ‘off grid’ places they truly rate. 

‘Basically if there's a long snaking line to enter a coffee shop or a bar in Paris, it's not a cool place, just a place to be seen, ‘ says Samuel Lopez-Barrantes a writer who has been living and working in Paris for the last ten years. ‘Paris has to be discovered to be experienced because it’s basically a city of many villages where the best bars and restaurants maintain a local, village feel. That’s because they’re as much about the community as they are about the consuming.’

So here you go. Devour them, bookmark them, and then visit them. Just whatever you do, please don’t share them on Tik Tok. 

*Oh and for those who want a more classic Paris itinerary I have updated, and will continue to update, my complete Paris guide which you can find here. This contains all the places I like and go to . Some are a little touristy. Les Deux Magots might have to come for example since a mouse ran across my foot there last week. No joke. But on the whole they’re pretty good places.

THE TRUE PARIS INSIDER GUIDE

Monica Ainley writes fashion Substack Mon Review which has a special (and very excellent) membership club called Your Woman In Paris for all your further insider Parisian needs 

Le Mezieres: ‘This looks like any old random Paris cafe but vibes vibes vibes! It’s affordable (rare in the 6th) and sometimes there’s even live music singalongs. I can’t believe I’m giving this away!’

Constance Dovergne who writes Carte Blanche

Aux Mandarins de Belleville: Tucked away in the deeply untouristy 13th you’ll find this Chinese restaurant that is great for a Friday night dinner away for the crowds. 

Ngoc Xuyen Saigon Officially voted one of the places in Paris for authentic Vietnamese pho

Tieng Heng: This cheap as chips Vietnamese cafe doesn’t even have a website but Parisians in the known come here for the best dumplings, lemon beef and banh mi 

19 Saint Roch: This is Paris’s latest chic hotspot according to Dovergne taken over by one of France’s most beloved chefs, Pierre Touitou. ‘It’s been the most talked about restaurant in months, maybe even years,’ she says. Open Tues-Friday.

Early June: This has become one of Paris’s sexiest addresses. Early June is basically a pop-up that invites some of the world’s most creative and promising young chefs from every part of the planet to come and cook. If you can’t book in advance go super early. 

Simon Auscher who writes Ceci Est Une Newsletter Food

Bistro Paul Bert: ‘This has the perfect wine list and killer steak au poivre.’ Also beloved by Alison Roman.

Martin: This is about as cool as it gets. ‘A great spot for a night with friends’ says Simon.

Café Méricourt : I can personally vouch for this too- one of the best breakfast/brunch spots in the city with a cool crowd.

Marissa Cox from Rue Rodier

L’Ébauchoir : For those adventurous enough to head a little out of the city into the 12th, you’ll be rewarded with this brilliant & bustling modern French bistro completely off the tourist trail

Amagat : ‘This is a great place for a date or dinner with a group of friends, especially in summer when you can sit out on their cobbled terrace under fairy lights,’ says Marissa.

AXS Design - A vintage & antique homewares heaven in the 11th. Just go!

La Marelle: Paris is full of designer consignment stores but some are much better than others. Marelle is not only located in one of Paris’s prettiest covered walkways but has an incredible selection of barely-worn designer goodies from all eras. 

Jesse Chase who writes The Social Medium

Cafe Mar’co: The guy who once ran the famed Colette Cantina-Marc Giami has created a chic but homely little eatery slap bang in the 1st. If you’e after food with a healthy sprinkle, plus a stylish crowd, this is the place to come

Takara: A stylish little Japanese right in the centre of Paris. 

Wild & The Moon: Paris may not be known for its healthy options, buy this is the place to come for excellent juices and vegan pastries

Samuel Lopez-Barrantes from If Not Paris 

La Petite Halle at La Villette:  According to Samuel this is one of the best kept secrets in Paris for jazz, hip hop and fusion in a beautiful setting.

Rue Saint Maur: Rue Oberkampf in the east of the city is still one of the best places to go for bars off the beaten track, but especially lovely is Rue Saint Maur says Samuel, which offers some of the city’s music venues and bars. 

Mediatheque de Bercy and Bibliotheque Historique de Paris: ‘There's an open secret in the city which has evaded the eyes of hungry wannabes for decades, a place where writers continue to flock without any fear of a TikTok invasion ... and it's the library,’ says Samuel. There’s a miniature forest inside Bercy and The Bibliothèque Historique de Paris is housed in one of the oldest luxury mansions in Paris.

Heloise Brion author of Miss Maggie’s Kitchen

Madonna Osteria: Booked well in advance for this fabulous Milanese restaurant serving excellent passband cocktails.

Eldorado: Located in the bohemian 17th arrondissement, this hotel and restaurant has the one of the best courtyards in all of Paris. ‘Plus lovely countryside-inspired room decor,’ says Heloise.

 Éternelle Notre Dame:  ‘An amazing VR experience where you learn everything about Notre Dame and be transported to different historical periods.’ 

Three Seven Paris:  A beautiful ceramics shop and atelier where each bowl and plate is completely handmade. 

 Blanche Patine This stunning showroom has the most beautiful collection of vintage French tableware

@blanchepatine

Writer and author, Seb Emina who runs Read Me

After 8 Books: ‘This is one of my favourite bookshops because of the completely unique range of stuff they sell, ‘ says Seb. English-language novels and non-fiction titles are there to an extent but so are art books, rare zines, subverted tarot cards, hoax scientific catalogues and many other things that challenge what exactly a "book" might be. The event programme is great too.

The bookshop with no name: ‘There’s a bookshop I've always been obsessed with, which is mostly to do with where it is. You have to go into a different bookshop called Le Genre Urbain (60 rue de Belleville) and look for a nondescript door at the back of the room,’ says Seb. ‘If you head through there and descend the staircase you end up in this mysterious chamber filled with old books and a few objets d'art, mostly in French but some in English, that's completely unrelated to the shop above. I don't even know what it's called and it has no Google presence I can find, that's how underground it is.

Virginie Dhello is a fashion and beauty writer living in Paris

Le Jardin du Palais Royal: A hidden garden and complete refuge in the centre of Paris. 

La librairie 7L One of Paris’s favourite bookstores founded by Karl Lagerfeld. Fans of beautiful coffee table books will not be disappointed.

Musée Gainsbourg rue de Verneuil: One of the most exciting new museums to open in Paris, this is a shrine to the late singer/songwriter Serge Gainsbourg. There are also tours of Gainsbourg’s old house BUT tickets sell out quickly and you must subscribe to their newsletter to be alerted to when slot become available.

I hope you enjoyed this free guide to Paris. To stay up to date with all my travel, fashion and beauty recommendations please do consider becoming a paid subscriber to support the research and work I do on your behalf. When you support the writers you love, they can do more of the work they love doing for you. Thank you x